Most Indian kitchens keep more than one oil, and for good reason: each one tastes different and suits different dishes.
Mustard oil
Sharp and pungent, it is the base of much of the cooking in the east and north. It suits fish, aloo, saag and, above all, pickles. Many cooks heat it until it just starts to smoke and then let it cool slightly before adding spices, which mellows the sharpness.
Groundnut oil
Mild and nutty, it is an everyday oil in the west and south. It works for sabzi, poha, farsan and frying, and does not overpower the spices.
Sesame oil
Gingelly or til oil is used across the south for tempering, for podi and rice, and in some pickles. Its flavour is gentle when it comes from untoasted seeds.
Wood-pressed or refined?
Wood-pressed oils keep the colour and smell of the seed. Refined oils are neutral. Neither is “right” for every dish; it comes down to taste. If you are switching to a wood-pressed oil, start with a little less than usual because the flavour is stronger.
Storing oil
Keep bottles closed and away from the stove and sunlight, and buy a size you will finish in a reasonable time.